With idyllic, undeveloped white-sand beaches and sea turtles, eagle rays and schools of multicolored fish parading just a short swim from shore, Virgin Islands National Park (VINP) is a paradise on Earth — specifically on St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands (USVI), territories that also include the larger, more developed islands of St. Thomas and St. Croix. Billionaire Laurance Rockefeller thought this small, 20-square-mile Caribbean isle so beautiful, he bought nearly 60 percent of St. John in 1952, then donated the land to the federal government in 1956 with the stipulation it become a national park for all to enjoy for generations to come.
Another big name mesmerized by the island, country music star Kenny Chesney, has owned a home here for years that was destroyed when Hurricane Irma swept across the isle in September 2017. The widespread devastation caused by Irma prompted Chesney to start a foundation that raised funds to help rebuild the isle and park. He has often sung of the joys of St. John beach life: “From this chair I’ve caught a few fish and some rays, and I’ve watched boats sail in and out of Cinnamon Bay … Been here about a month, not doing much at all, man it’s hard to get bored when you’re having a ball.”
St John and VINP aren’t just for sun, sand and rum cocktails, though. “People come here for the beaches and the water, but the island has such a rich history, you’d be missing out if you didn’t tour at least one historical site,” says Jenn Manes, owner of Explore STJ tours, a local company taking visitors on combination beach and culture tours. A surprising number of historic sites are hidden in the park’s jungled, mountainous terrain: from ancient petroglyphs Taino peoples carved in rocks to ruins of once-mighty sugar plantations, including the recently commemorated “Road to Freedom” trail memorializing the slaves who toiled there.
While the national park and St. John have bounced back well from Hurricane Irma and then Hurricane Maria just two weeks later, recovery efforts are ongoing. The heavily damaged, Rockefeller-founded Caneel Bay Resort within the park still awaits redevelopment, and many trails remain denuded, their large shade trees felled by the hurricanes. But that shouldn’t stop you from visiting: Green once again blankets park hillsides, the waters still shimmer in shades of vivid blue, and the park’s beautiful Cinnamon Bay Beach and Campground has reopened.
VINP can be visited as a day trip from St. Thomas (where plentiful lodging options come cheaper), but to best experience the park plan on spending a few days on St. John to walk the park’s hiking trails, visit its historic sites and, of course, relax on its beaches.